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Mar 21

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Volvo 340 1.8 16v F7p Engine Swap, Taking the Engine Out Part Three

Our third day of work started a bit later than we had planned!, we were both out on the town the night before so the morning consisted of Coffee, a cheeky fryup and a bit of down time to reflect on the previous nights shenanigans, and physcing ourselves up to tackle the mountain before us!

Today was the day the old engine was finally coming out!

Engine Crane Rope Clio 16v 1.8

The last thing stopping us from removing the engine was the clutch cable, attached to the bellhousing. This was a nice simple task which we tackled quickly and got us in the mood for some serious engine removal.

The clutch cable is attached at the back of the clutch pedal with a simple bolt. In order to remove it you need to first take off the bit of trim, attached to the underside of the steering column. This will then give you access to that bolt. Once you have access and the bolt is undone the clutch cable is then free. Now you just have to pull it through the bulkhead and release the engine mounts and your good to go!

Volvo 340dl 1.7 Engine Mount Removal

To summarize then, Removing the engine involved the following, My situation may be a bit different to yours if your doing the swap from scratch, theres a lot more to it, but if you already have all the parts in place or have a proper 1.7 340 or 360 volvo, theres not much more to it.

  • Disconnect all the water pipes from the back of the block and the radiator
  • Remove and label all the various plugs and sensors, take notes of the cables that don’t connect to anything aswell
  • Remove the Air filter/ air box
  • Remove The Fuel Rail
  • Remove the inlet manifold
  • Remove the prop
  • Release the engine mounts
  • TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES!!

As you can see there isn’t much to it at all, and it is a very simple engine swap/ replacement. The hard part comes when you get started on the above tasks. A whole day was more or less taken up by removing the prop due to seized bolts.  The other thing was the design of the inlet manifold that made it hard to get to the bolts under the manifold to undo it, simple things like this are where your time goes!

So, Once we released the engine mounts ( to find out one of them had completely failed!) the engine was free. To stop the engine literally hitting the floor we had it under tension on the engine crane to help with removal and steadying of the mounts.

Failed Engine Mount

It still wasn’t the easiest of tasks and it helps if you have a few mates for sure, we very slowly started to raise the engine out and started to find cables and things were getting caught on various parts of the engine, so when you come to do it yourself, take it easy and make sure everyone’s alert.

We almost damaged my brake lines as they were getting caught on the end of the bellhousing. They were in a kind of awkward place that made them hard to see. It wasn’t until we looked in detail that we found out, as soon as we got around that the engine was free. The lesson here is think and look closely if your removing an engine. If it seems or feels like it’s getting caught on something..thats usually because it is!

Volvo 340 Brake Lines

Something to bear in mind (this would of made it a lot easier when it comes to clearance) as mentioned in jon-ovlov’s guide. Take the sump off when pulling the engine out of the car, and put the sump back in when the engine is back in the car. This makes it a lot easier to pull out and put back in.

The saga didn’t end there though, the engine was out and free but we didn’t have enough clearance. We couldn’t suspend the engine high enough out of the engine bay due to the bellhousing and sump, and we couldn’t push the car back either..big problem. This is where a bit of ingenuity was needed!

Fortunately my dad is good at this sort of thing so he suggested we wrap the tether suspending the engine from the crane around the hook, in essence to make it shorter, thus pull the engine up.  We did this and it worked well, but the engine was far from clear still!

After a bit more pondering we found a couple of planks of wood and used them as leavers to get that bit more height on the engine crane by resting one under the crank and another at the rear end of the engine on the sump.  It still wasn’t really enough so while I was sat on the sump bit of wood and pressing the other bit of wood by the crank down, my friend had tilt the engine at an angle while my dad pushed it as hard as he could along the wood to clear the front of the engine bay!

As you can see we were very pleased with the result and thought it was a good point to call it a day!

Clio 1.8 16v f7p Oil removal

  1. Volvo 340dl F7p Renault Clio 1.8 16v Engine Swap/Replacement Part 1
  2. Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v Valver Engine Swap Part Two
  3. Volvo 340 1.8 16v F7p Engine Swap, Taking the Engine Out Part Three
  4. Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v F7p Part Four, Prepping the New F7p To Go In!
  5. Volvo 340 Valver F7p Part Five 1.7 Bellhousing and Clutch Assembly
  6. Volvo 340dl Engine Swap Part Six, Getting the Clio 1.8 16v F7p Engine Back In
  7. Volvo 340 Valver Clio 1.8 16v Engine Swap Final Part, Getting it Running
  8. Volvo 340dl 1.8 16v Engine Swap Resources

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Permanent link to this article: http://carsandcoolstuff.com/2013/03/volvo-340-1-8-16v-f7p-engine-swap-taking-the-engine-out-part-three/

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