Mar 25

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Volvo 340 Valver Clio 1.8 16v Engine Swap Final Part, Getting it Running

So you’ve finally got the engine in and all the mechanical stuff done, now your pretty much ready.

First things first. Oil and water put oil in checking the level constantly and get some water and ant-freeze in there aswell. Once you’ve done that, hand crank the engine with a socket for a while and this will start to move oil around where it needs to go. Again keep an eye on the level and make sure its all good and the engine is cranking smoothly.

I thought connecting up all the loom was going to be an absolute nightmare. This was super daunting to me but since I took loads and loads of pictures before I took the engine out initially, that was an incredibly good reference point when we needed to get started and if we got stuck.

But don’t worry, it’s not actually that bad at all. Everything is colour coded with a very specific plug and socket arrangement.  Also the length of the cables are just so, i.e. the fuel rail sensors  are the correct length for each of the four cylinders, no unnecessary extra cable. This makes it pretty straight forward. The more you plug in the easier it get gets.

Another top tip would be to label everything as you disconnect it accordingly. This helped us a massive amount as it came back to putting it all back together, make a note of your labels in a notepad aswell.

Be sure to use my pictures as a reference point if you get stuck

Once we connected everything back up together.. the car still didn’t start, it took us a whole afternoon to find out why, we forgot to connect the alternator live feed.. little things. So double check everything if your having problems. Be sure you’ve not missed anything and always go back to basics when all else fails.

FINALLY.  The car was running. All that was left was to leave it idling for a while till it gets up to temperature. It also takes a while for all the oil to get around the engine. It’ll sound really rough and tappety at first as it’s running dry but give it a good half hour to an hour of idling and your there.

This is a good time to be checking that the fan is cutting on and off, theres no drips or leaks anywhere in the system, and pay close attention to all the dials aswell.

I couldn’t thank all my mates, and Volvo 300 mania Members enough, every step of the way there has been someone to help me out. It’s been a fantastic experience bought about by bad circumstances, who would of thought?? Check out all the pictures and first real run of it in my gallery.

Volvo 340 1.8 16v, completed

  1. Volvo 340dl F7p Renault Clio 1.8 16v Engine Swap/Replacement Part 1
  2. Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v Valver Engine Swap Part Two
  3. Volvo 340 1.8 16v F7p Engine Swap, Taking the Engine Out Part Three
  4. Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v F7p Part Four, Prepping the New F7p To Go In!
  5. Volvo 340 Valver F7p Part Five 1.7 Bellhousing and Clutch Assembly
  6. Volvo 340dl Engine Swap Part Six, Getting the Clio 1.8 16v F7p Engine Back In
  7. Volvo 340 Valver Clio 1.8 16v Engine Swap Final Part, Getting it Running
  8. Volvo 340dl 1.8 16v Engine Swap Resources


My Car

Volvo 340 1.8 16V f7P Valver First Drive Pictures and Wash

Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v Retro Drift Car Build Pictures


Permanent link to this article: http://carsandcoolstuff.com/2013/03/volvo-340-valver-clio-1-8-16v-engine-swap-final-part-getting-it-running/

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