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Mar 21

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Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v F7p Part Four, Prepping the New F7p To Go In!

Hard part of getting the old engine out done. Time to start prepping the new engine! This is where the exciting stuff begins.  The best part about prepping the new engine is it’s 10 times easier to do stuff straight away, since it’s not actually in the car!

If you’ve bought the engine straight from a clio like I did, First thing is to check if there’s any oil in it. This is a good chance to examine the true state of the engine.  First thing we did was get in on a crane and undo the sump plug. Mine had plenty of oil in it and it was spot on with no obvious residue or bits in it at all, as it should be. This suggested straight away it was probably in perfect working order not long ago.

Now it was just a case of putting parts back on that we took back off, keeping a few things in mind obviously. While the engine is out of the car, this is the best time ever to change all the gaskets, top and bottom due to access. Not forgetting a whole cambelt kit aswell. It can get quite expensive getting everything together. But its well worth it. Especially if you don’t want to be pulling the whole engine out again!

After we drained the oil, the first thing we did was start on the sump, you have to replace the clio sump for the Volvo one due to the engine mounting brackets being on the drivers side of the Volvo one.

This was another one of those things that should be straight forward but rarely is! To start with it has 20 torx screws! Two of them are hidden, so find those before you start smashing away at the sump to separate it from the block. This will take a long time, due to the torx bolts obviously being torqued up from the factory and almost 20 years of sitting on the engine.

Little tip for removing the torx screws if your struggling, use loads of wd40, rust remover, bolt lubricant or something like that, knock them with a chisel and hammer first to “shock” them a bit or remove excess rust around the threads, then when you go to put the torx piece in, gently and throughly knock it in with a hammer so you know the load distribution will be even when it finally comes to undoing it.

Once all those are off the sump should pull away relatively easily.

clio sump

You should then see a plastic windage tray around the oil sender. This may need a bit of trimming to accommodate the Volvo sump. You’ll see straightaway what area needs trimming. It’s not much at all and it makes no difference to the effectiveness of the tray. The previous engine I had didn’t have any of this plastic trimming in it.

This may of contributed towards its failure as the oil level got low or the car was accelerating, cornering hard etc. It’s possible there was points in time when the oil sender was completely starved of oil, thus starving parts of the engine, this is what windage trays prevent from happening.

The next step is bolting the bellhousing and clutch assembly together… then engine is more or less ready to go back in!

  1. Volvo 340dl F7p Renault Clio 1.8 16v Engine Swap/Replacement Part 1
  2. Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v Valver Engine Swap Part Two
  3. Volvo 340 1.8 16v F7p Engine Swap, Taking the Engine Out Part Three
  4. Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v F7p Part Four, Prepping the New F7p To Go In!
  5. Volvo 340 Valver F7p Part Five 1.7 Bellhousing and Clutch Assembly
  6. Volvo 340dl Engine Swap Part Six, Getting the Clio 1.8 16v F7p Engine Back In
  7. Volvo 340 Valver Clio 1.8 16v Engine Swap Final Part, Getting it Running
  8. Volvo 340dl 1.8 16v Engine Swap Resources

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My Car

Volvo 340 1.8 16V f7P Valver First Drive Pictures and Wash

Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v Retro Drift Car Build Pictures

 

Permanent link to this article: http://carsandcoolstuff.com/2013/03/volvo-340dl-1-8-16v-f7p-part-four-prepping-the-new-f7p-to-go-in/

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