Mar 20

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Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v Valver Engine Swap Part Two

Our next day of Volvo  Valver  work was as good as it was bad, since we’d disconnected and labelled up a lot of the wiring and small things, alot of stuff could just go. We started by pulling off a lot of the radiator hoses and there was just water and anti-freeze..everywhere. Every time we moved a pipe, even more just seemed to come from nowhere!

I knew there would be a lot of water but wasn’t expecting as much as there was! Some of the neighbours weren’t to impressed.

Renault Clio 16v Phase 1 Engine Water Pump Arrangement

It really is much simpler than I thought it would be in many respects. All the piping and hosing is just held on with jubilee clips basically. Again we were labelling the parts up we thought we’d get confused over or if there was alot of hoses in one area.

The next step was removing the inlet manifold, should be pretty simple right? Well in theory it is because it’s just held on by bolts, but it’s the accessibility that’s the problem. The top ones were no problem, but the bottom ones just weren’t happening.   But after much persistence and very bloody knuckles, we managed to get it off!

The irony is, it’ll be a 10 minute job putting it on the new engine outside of the car!

Now  it’s about  getting the prop off  so we can lift the engine out..again more problems! The prop is held on either end by what is essentially a C-Clamp with a 6mm hex bolt pulling either side of the clamp together tightening the spline, so you need an alan key, again this should be nice and simple to remove, but nope the bolt was completely seized. The only way we could get if off was by sheering the head off the bolt. This worked, but I had some seriously damaged prop clamps.

The Prop was still really hard to get off, but something we learnt, that made prop swapping/taking off/ putting back in a 10 minute job, is use an engine crane. There’s no space to manoeuvre the prop backwards and forwards with the gearbox and engine in place (contrary to what the Haynes manual says) so loosen up the front engine mounts enough to lift and tilt the whole engine, all it needs is a bit of angle on it and it makes the process simple as.

ALWAYS CHECK YOU HAVE THE SPLINES LINED UP! On the input shafts either end of the prop ..otherwise you’ll just spin them as soon as you move the car.

Getting Ready To Remove Clio 16v phase 1 engine

We were on a role at this point and disconnected the alternator in a matter of minutes.

So this is why it was as good as it was bad, we got alot done, but it took a lot longer than it should of done to do it.

  1. Volvo 340dl F7p Renault Clio 1.8 16v Engine Swap/Replacement Part 1
  2. Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v Valver Engine Swap Part Two
  3. Volvo 340 1.8 16v F7p Engine Swap, Taking the Engine Out Part Three
  4. Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v F7p Part Four, Prepping the New F7p To Go In!
  5. Volvo 340 Valver F7p Part Five 1.7 Bellhousing and Clutch Assembly
  6. Volvo 340dl Engine Swap Part Six, Getting the Clio 1.8 16v F7p Engine Back In
  7. Volvo 340 Valver Clio 1.8 16v Engine Swap Final Part, Getting it Running
  8. Volvo 340dl 1.8 16v Engine Swap Resources


My Car

Volvo 340 1.8 16V f7P Valver First Drive Pictures and Wash

Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v Retro Drift Car Build Pictures


Permanent link to this article: http://carsandcoolstuff.com/2013/03/volvo-340dl-1-8-16v-valver-engine-swap-part-two/

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