Mar 25

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Volvo 340dl Engine Swap Part Six, Getting the Clio 1.8 16v F7p Engine Back In

There’s two ways to drop the engine back in, one way makes life a lot easier but it doesn’t really matter.. If I ever have to do this again while I own the car (god forbid) I’d go for the easier one. The easier one is leaving the sump off till the engine is back in the car. This helps with clearance quite a lot.  The Volvo and Clio sump are both very deep so taking it off makes a world of difference.

dropping new f7p in

However, I wasn’t aware of this at the time, but we managed to drop it in with the sump on. You definitely need a few people to help since it’s not the easiest thing to manoeuvre around. Once it’s lowered in to the engine bay you have move it around till it sits in the mounting plates.

It is relatively straight forward after you get one of the mounts in, it just needs a bit of messing around to get it sat right in the bay.lining up f7p in volvo  with the crane

Best thing to do is start with the bellhousing mounts at the rear of the engine, but put a nut on as you get the screw threads through the mounting holes, then tighten it enough so you can still move it around on the crane to line up the front mounts. It’s a hell of a lot easier doing it back to front this way, and it allows for prop fitting.

Time to get the prop on.The Haynes manual and everything else will say take prop off and put it back in while everything is all in car, tried that. It was ridiculously hard. Fortunately we found a very simple, hassle free (guaranteed less damaging way) of doing it.

f7p volvo 360

Again the problem with prop fitting is manoeuvrability and space. So with the front engine mounts loose, we basically pulled up the front of the engine with the crane. You can do this with everything connected aswell.  That slight pivot is more than enough to make getting the prop on and off a breeze.

When your taking the prop on or off. Always knock it as far back as it will go first, then it will just clear the front clutch spline enough for you to tilt the engine up and pull the prop out. Otherwise the clutch spline is in the way of the rubber surround on the prop. As you knock it forward, its still stuck on the gearbox end enough to prevent you pulling or levering it down.

Once the prop is on both splines knock it forward till you’ve got an even amount of spline visible at both ends, a good thumb/two finger width is enough on either end. Then put the prop clamps back on. Theres an indentation where the screw thread of the prop clamp goes, make sure its sat properly on that either end and tighten it up as best you can. You might need to get someone on the clutch, to move the prop around to make life easier.

Thats  it engine back in! Next I’ll be looking at wiring and preparations for first turnover

engine in

  1. Volvo 340dl F7p Renault Clio 1.8 16v Engine Swap/Replacement Part 1
  2. Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v Valver Engine Swap Part Two
  3. Volvo 340 1.8 16v F7p Engine Swap, Taking the Engine Out Part Three
  4. Volvo 340DL 1.8 16v F7p Part Four, Prepping the New F7p To Go In!
  5. Volvo 340 Valver F7p Part Five 1.7 Bellhousing and Clutch Assembly
  6. Volvo 340dl Engine Swap Part Six, Getting the Clio 1.8 16v F7p Engine Back In
  7. Volvo 340 Valver Clio 1.8 16v Engine Swap Final Part, Getting it Running
  8. Volvo 340dl 1.8 16v Engine Swap Resources


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Permanent link to this article: http://carsandcoolstuff.com/2013/03/volvo-340dl-engine-swap-part-six-getting-the-clio-1-8-16v-f7p-engine-back-in/

1 comment

  1. cidgerib

    Thanks for sharing.

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